Yamuna Flaherty

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I wrote this essay in 2002, in the long aftershock of September 11, while traveling through Kerala, South India. I was young, far from home, and watching the world harden in real time.

Recently, I reread it—and felt how little has changed. Onc

Varanasi has shaped many versions of me.

In my twenties, it was the city where I studied music, fell in love, witnessed death daily, and learned devotion in both human and divine forms. Years later, it became the place where I made some of my most m

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